Trad Gear

Trad climbing gear (short for traditional climbing gear) refers to the removable equipment climbers use to place protection in natural rock features (like cracks) during a climb. Unlike sport climbing—where protection (bolts) is already fixed into the rock—trad gear must be placed and removed by the climber.

Purpose of Trad Gear

Trad gear protects against falls and allows a lead climber to create their own anchor system as they ascend a route without pre-installed bolts.

Core Components of Trad Gear

1. Cams (Spring-Loaded Cam Devices / SLCDs)

  • Function: Placed in cracks; expand to grip rock securely.

  • Popular brands: Black Diamond Camalot, DMM Dragon, Metolius Master Cam.

  • Advantages: Easy to place and remove, great for parallel cracks.

2. Nuts / Stoppers / Wires

  • Function: Wedged into constrictions or flared cracks.

  • Passive protection: No moving parts.

  • Lightweight and reliable.

3. Hexes

  • Larger, hex-shaped passive protection.

  • Good for wider cracks and less expensive than cams.

  • Less commonly used now but still valuable in some areas.

4. Tricams

  • Hybrid between passive and active protection.

  • Can be used in horizontal cracks and pockets.

  • Particularly useful in limestone or alpine environments.

5. Alpine Draws / Extendable Quickdraws

  • Made from long, thin slings and two carabiners.

  • Help reduce rope drag by allowing gear to “extend” away from the wall.

6. Slings / Runners

  • Used to extend placements, build anchors, or wrap features like trees or horns.

  • Come in different lengths and materials (nylon vs Dyneema).

7. Carabiners (Locking & Non-locking)

  • Locking carabiners for anchor systems and belaying.

  • Non-locking for racking gear or building quickdraws.

Trad Rack – Typical Beginner Setup

Gear TypeTypical Quantity
Cams 1 full set (0.3 – 3 or more)
Nuts 1 full set (sizes 1–13)
Alpine Draws 6–12
Locking ‘biners    3–6
Slings 2–4 (60–120 cm)
Nut tool 1 (for removing gear)

Key Concepts in Trad Climbing

  • Gear placement is skill-based – the climber must know how to place protection safely.

  • All gear is removable – nothing is left behind unless building a permanent anchor.

  • Anchor-building knowledge is essential.

  • More gear = more weight – trad climbers often carry heavy racks on long routes.

Want help figuring out what to buy for a starter rack or what gear works in specific rock types (e.g., granite vs sandstone)? Let me know!